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Waves are one of the most beautiful and awe-inspiring natural phenomena.They are in a continual set of motion – rising up, moving forward, splashing amongst themselves, losing their motion and then rising again.
💥Information about the Ocean Waves💥
Facts About Ocean Waves.
Even though the average person might think that most waves are pretty much the same, there is a wide variety of waves and types of waves that roam across the ocean.
Jeremy Dean
💥1. Surface Waves
A surface wave is a wave that travels along the surface of a medium. The medium is the matter through which the wave travels. Ocean waves are the best-known examples of surface waves. They travel on the surface of the water between the ocean and the air.
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💥2. Types of Ocean Waves and Wave Classification
The overall oscillatory motion on the ocean surface is a combination of a large variety of different types of waves. All these waves are primarily classified according to the generation and restoring mechanisms, which induce oscillations within a wide band of periods and associated wavelengths.
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2.1 Capillary Waves
The shortest‐period waves, and the first to be noticed on the ocean surface when wind starts blowing, are the capillary waves , which resemble cat 's paws ripping the otherwise smooth surface. This peculiar wavy structure is generally forced by a light breeze of speeds of about 3 m/s (taken at a reference height of 10 m from the water level) and assumes a fine structure of small ripples with a wavelength of less than 1.5 cm and period less than 0.1 s (an example of capillary waves is shown in Figure 2).
2.2 Gravity Waves: Wind Sea and Swell
A consistent blowing of wind over a substantial fetch (i.e., the distance over which the wind blows) forces waves to become much longer than the threshold wavelength of 1.7 cm. As the wavelength grows longer than 1.5 m (i.e., wave period becomes larger than 1 s), surface tension becomes negligible and gravity remains the sole restoring mechanism. Under these circumstances, waves are classified as gravity waves
Under the direct effect of the local wind, a large number of components with different wave periods, direction of propagations and phases are generated.
When waves propagate over a depth that is much larger than the wavelength (i.e., the water depth can be considered as of infinite depth), longer waves travel faster than shorter ones, dispersing from one another). As a consequence, long waves rapidly move outside the generating area
(Figure 3) and become known as SWELLS.
Under the direct effect of the local wind, a large number of components with different wave periods, direction of propagations and phases are generated.
When waves propagate over a depth that is much larger than the wavelength (i.e., the water depth can be considered as of infinite depth), longer waves travel faster than shorter ones, dispersing from one another). As a consequence, long waves rapidly move outside the generating area
(Figure 3) and become known as SWELLS.
2.3 Infragravity Waves
Nonlinear interactions between wave components convert part of the energy associated to wind‐generated gravity waves into subharmonics, generating wave trains and are normally known as (Figure 4) Infragravity Waves.
2.4 Long‐Period Waves (Tsunamis and Storm Surges)
Well‐defined waves with periods longer than 5 min are routinely recorded in the ocean.
Although different originating mechanisms can be responsible for such waves, meteorological conditions and earthquakes remain the primary cause.
Normally, long oscillations generated by atmospheric conditions are known as seiches and storm surges , while tsunamis identify waves originated from earthquakes.
Tsunamis are long waves with period varying between 1 and 20 min (wavelength from a few kilometers up to a few hundreds of kilometers) that are generated by sudden tectonic changes to the sea bed or landslides that are usually attributed to earthquakes and submarine volcanic activity.
In the open ocean, tsunamis have very small amplitude (only rarely wave height exceeds 1 m) and generally pass completely unnoticed.
Propagation into shallower waters, however, makes wave shoal, compressing the shape of the oscillation. As a result, its speed diminishes of about one order of magnitude (from about 800 to <80 km/h), while its wavelength reduces to less than 20 km with a consequent substantial growth of wave height.
Although different originating mechanisms can be responsible for such waves, meteorological conditions and earthquakes remain the primary cause.
Normally, long oscillations generated by atmospheric conditions are known as seiches and storm surges , while tsunamis identify waves originated from earthquakes.
Tsunamis are long waves with period varying between 1 and 20 min (wavelength from a few kilometers up to a few hundreds of kilometers) that are generated by sudden tectonic changes to the sea bed or landslides that are usually attributed to earthquakes and submarine volcanic activity.
In the open ocean, tsunamis have very small amplitude (only rarely wave height exceeds 1 m) and generally pass completely unnoticed.
Propagation into shallower waters, however, makes wave shoal, compressing the shape of the oscillation. As a result, its speed diminishes of about one order of magnitude (from about 800 to <80 km/h), while its wavelength reduces to less than 20 km with a consequent substantial growth of wave height.
2.5 Tides
The combined effect of the Earth's rotation and the gravitational attraction from the Moon and the Sun generates two bulges in the ocean surface: one points toward the Moon/Sun and one away from them (see a schematic in Figure 6).
💥3. let's enjoy the great Ocean Waves...
Encuentro Surf Beach, 5 minutes outside of Cabarete Village is a popular surfing spot. It’s warm and uncrowded waters allow you to catch waves of different sizes and difficulty. You’ll find cool beach shacks offering board rentals and lessons for every level
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💥4. Let's protect our Oceans
For centuries, people have assumed that our vast ocean was limitless and immune to human impacts. It’s only recently that scientists have come to understand the devastating effects we’ve already had on our seas.
iOceanLife.com
⭐Great Nature
I declare this world is so beautiful that I can hardly believe it exists. The sky, the mountains, the trees, the animals, give us a delight in and for themselves.
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